From fashion faux pas to Spotify playlists, our tutors give us a peek into their creative world
Paulo Melim Andersson
Former Creative Director at Chloé and Mentor for Collection Research & Design at ILA
Meet Paulo, Former Creative Director at Chloé and one of the brilliant mentors guiding the next generation of fashion visionaries at ILA. With his unparalleled expertise in Collection Research & Design, Paulo inspires students to push creative boundaries, blend innovation with artistry, and craft collections that leave a lasting impression on the industry.
Under his mentorship, ILA students don’t just learn—they evolve, uncovering their unique voices and bringing their fashion dreams to life.
1. Tell us about your creative story
Having studied tailoring in Sweden, I worked my way through internships, modelling jobs and studying at the Sorbonne in Paris, followed by London’s St Martins and the Royal Academy. I started working at Maison Martin Margiela in 1995. In my third week, I was asked to reproduce an old design from scratch… Mr Margiela was pleased and personally went into the atelier and brought me into design – that was my big break. In 1999, I started at Marni, where I worked as a design director for 8 years.
2. How does the creative process happen?
At St. Martins, 80% of the time was dedicated to research, reconsideration and refining the concept. The last 20% was for execution. And it’s the same in the real fashion industry. You draw, reconsider, replace fabrics, edit the colour card… then you launch the collection at the very last minute, in order to be 99% certain.
To create is about refining, reconsidering and improving, rather than sticking with a rigid idea.
3. What’s on your reading list?
I read two or three books a week. Thomas Mann, Josef Roth, Hamsun, Wolf…
4. Tell us a fashion faux pas?
They don’t exist! YSL did red with fuchsia, navy with black… I personally prefer brown shoes with a black suit….
5. What would you change in the industry?
I regret that fewer and fewer have the facility to have samples made in-house and no longer work with an atelier. As things get more and more digitalised, what is missing are real handmade drawings and sketchbooks.
Margherita Cuccia
Head of Special Projects at Artribune S.r.l.
A fashion editor, fashion lecturer and textile designer, Margherita specialises in sustainability and textile materials.
Margherita is inspiring ILA students to spark their creativity by mastering innovative textile design techniques. From bold patterns to intricate textures, her teachings will elevate any fashion collection to a whole new level of artistry.
1. Tell us about your creative story
Even as a child, I always had the need to create with my hands. Growing up, I started making handcrafted gifts for loved ones – that’s how my sustainable accessories brand, TITATEXTILE started: bags from recycled painting canvas and waste textiles
2. Your big break?
It all happened for me when TITATEXTILE started to take off. A few years later I decided to go deeper by studying Textile Art at Barcelona’s Escola Massana. A whole new world opened up to me, the world of Textiles and I realized that if I studied even a lifetime, I would not have enough time. To this day, I’m still learning and discovering.
3. How do you combat a creative block?
When it feels hard, I start doing, creating and throwing away over and over until something good comes out and some inspiration arrives.
4. Who is your design/style icon?
Italian design Maria Monaci Gallenga is my textiles icon, the perfect contrast between plain velvet and metallic print.
5. Your fantasy fashion era?
In terms of style, I’d loved to have experienced Ancient Rome, or the 30s and 60s.
6. What’s on your Spotify playlist?
Bob Dylan, Mina, Lucio Dalla, Alabama Shakes…
7. Any podcasts/publications you can’t do without?
Artribune, where I also work and LifeGate is great for sustainability newness.
8. Advice for starting a fashion career?
Delve into curiosity. Search outside but also deep inside of you and take this study time as a chance to take risks. Always keep sustainability at the centre of your practice.
Catherine Van Baal
Design Consultant
Meet Catherine Van Baal, a brilliant tutor at ILA with a wealth of expertise spanning trend forecasting, product development, and production management.
As a former WGSN trends strategist and in-house designer for renowned brands, Catherine brings a unique perspective that blends creativity with practical industry know-how and pays close attention to sustainability in the overall process.
Tell us about your journey into fashion?
After graduating in Fashion Design, I went on to design in-house for premium brands, eventually joining WGSN to head up one of their trends teams. Ten years ago, I started CVB Design Consultancy Ltd., supporting brands in launching new product areas. The launch space has become my comfort zone; it’s an exciting space to be!
Alongside my commercial work, I enjoy paying forward by sharing my expertise with students who, in turn, give me a fresh new perspective. It’s a two-way street.
Your creative routine – how do you start when it’s hard?
Staying organised keeps me creative. Creating a mood board of samples and swatches always helps get my head straight and in trends mode!
How is AI impacting the industry?
If used wisely, AI can help us work more efficiently, which could drive down costs and open up opportunities. For me, it’s about learning the best ways to integrate AI into design and production processes while keeping a close eye on sustainability, ethical practices and maintaining the human touch to avoid a one-size-fits-all solution.
What’s on your Spotify playlist?
Mixed tunes depending on my mood – from blues, soul & disco to breakbeats, hip hop & jungle. While working, I listen to various Digi radio stations to keep my playlist fresh.
Advice for starting a career in product development?
Stay focused, work with people and brands you align with, and the rest will come. Be prepared to work hard! Treat every level of the supply chain with respect – with a team-first attitude, it’s an enjoyable process.
Want to know more about our tutors? Find out how they can help boost your career in fashion here.
